Here are a couple of sewing techniques as well as some good sewing tips on how to sew a reversible jacket or quilted jacket. One sewn and turned. the other is sewn and tied.
Try both to help you decide on your preferred sewing style.
For both methods, follow these cutting and sewing instructions:
Choose similar weight fabrics for a reversible jacket.
Shrink all fabrics and connections.
Connect the jacket with a fusible interface.
Test the joint on a piece of fabric first to make sure it will be OK.
Depending on the type of fabric, you can choose the front and back of the jacket.
Note: You may want to bind the fabric and then cut the sweater pieces out of the overlapping fabric.
Carefully cut two fronts and one back from each fabric.
Make sure that the front and back of the sweater pieces are the same size in both weaves after you cut them. Lay one on top of the other to check.
Apply any pockets or designs to each front and back layer.
per layer:
Put the right sides of the fabric together and pin the front and back shoulder seams together. Do not backstitch.
Instead, start and end each stitch with short stitches (18-20 in.) about 1 to 1-1/2 in. long.
Sandwich press at the seams.
Press the seams open.
At the neck and shoulder point of the shoulder seam, trim the shoulder seam allowance back at an angle for about 1-1/2 inch to eliminate bulk when making the neck and armhole seams.
Also cut the shoulder seams of one of the layers to be slightly lower than the other to sway or line up the seams when they lay on top of each other.
Continue with Method 1 or Method 2 to finish the sweater.
The first way – how to sew to complement a stitched and turned-down jacket
Put the right sides together.
Note: In general, when sewing a quilted jacket, it’s a good idea to cut about 1/8 inch of the lining before attaching it to the outer layer. This prevents the lining from showing on the outside when the jacket is on.
For a reversible jacket, you may or may not want to do this.
If a small part of a layer is visible on one side, it may look like narrow tubes. You are the designer. Create the look you want.
Sew the edges of the jacket arms together using short stitches (18-20 stitches per inch) all the way around.
Press sandwich these seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim the armpit seams to a 1/8-inch seam allowance. Short stitches will secure this seam.
If this is a lined jacket, trim the seams for the armholes and all other seams as well. If it’s reversible, you may not want the undercut to appear on the edge.
Sewing tip: Always use short stitches and cut to 1/8 inch seam allowance for curve stitches. Then reduce its size if possible. Produces a cleaner, sharper curve instead of trimming to 1/4 inch and cutting. Try it!
After completing the armholes, place the right sides of the jacket back together with all edges aligned. Pin to secure layers.
Sew the front and neck together.
Start sewing about 2 inches from the side seam on the bottom front and stitch across the bottom of the front, up the center of the front and around the neck and down the other side of the front with a stop about 2 inches from the other side seam.
Use a regular stitch length to sew across the bottom and front of the front. Change to a short stitch length to stitch the curve around the neck.
Sandwich press seam.
Press seam open.
Trim the curved area around the neck to 1/8 inch.
Trim the rest of the seam to 1/4 inch.
Hold the scissors at an angle when cutting to help place seams or grade seam allowances or use “duckbill” scissors to help do this.
Sewing tip: Always line up the edges of your seam allowances when you end up laying them on top of each other in the finished garment.
Turn the jacket right side out by pulling the fronts through the shoulders one side at a time.
Press well to set the seam lines exactly on the edge.
With right sides together, match the armhole seams and pin them just across the stitch line to pin one on top of the other.
Stitch the side seams of both layers in one continuous step while carefully moving the needle over the armpit pin.
Sandwich press seam.
Press seam open.
You may want to leave a full seam allowance here in case you have to let the jacket come out at some point.
Now, you have the lower back open and about 2 inches on either side of the side seam toward the front.
Turn right sides together to match the side seams. Place a pin exactly in the stitch line of the side seams to pin one on top of the other.
Starting on one front side where you stopped stitching earlier, stitch across the bottom until you reach about 2 inches from the next side seam pin and stop leaving a 4-inch opening on that side.
Sandwich press seam.
Press seam open.
Press down the unsewn seam allowances as if they were sewn.
Cut and grade the seam allowances to about 1/4 inch.
Turn the jacket right side out through the 4-inch opening at the side bottom hem. This hole is better than the hole in the middle of the centre-back. It’s not noticeable.
Press well again.
At the opening, turn around and line up the edges.
To finish this opening, close it by hand or apply a narrow strip of fusible web and seal it.
If desired, topstitch 1/4 inch from edges.
Make slits on both sides of the jacket.
Sew two buttons together to make a piece of string between them. Use these double studs through both eyelets like cuff links. You can even use two different buttons like
As long as they are the same size to fit into the holes.
The second way
Another way to finish a reversible vest is to sew each vest with the shoulder seams and side seams.
Put the wrong sides of the jackets together.
Stitch 3/4 inch around the armholes and outside edges of the jacket to hold the two layers together.
Trim 5/8 inch all around.
Bind all the outside edges with either self-fabric or contrasting fabric, fold over the edge, or braid to the end, and you can even use a decorative edge to finish off the sweater.
This is quick and easy!
It’s your choice. You are the designer!
Enjoy your jacket!
It makes sense!
