Most of us live our lives with certain expectations.
We expect the light to turn on when the switch is turned on. We expect our cars to go off when we hit the gas pedal.
Therefore, when we press the foot control on our sewing machines, we expect the sewing machine to work.
Sometimes, we think of your sewing machine as a friend or in some sense as a real person. We talk to him. We touch it. We listen to him. Sometimes, it may appear that our friend has an infection or disease. This is especially true when we hit the force and very little happens.
When you hit the control foot, does your sewing machine hesitate? Do you groan a little? Is it spinning very slowly or maybe not spinning at all?
If so, your sewing machine may be suffering from the dreaded sewing machine motor fatigue syndrome..
You can determine if this is your problem fairly quickly with a few basic tests.
You set up your sewing machine and are ready to sew, but when you hit the foot pedal, the machine barely moves at all. It’s as if the machine is tired from a long, hard summer. No matter how hard you press that foot control; No matter how much force you put in; The sewing machine just pulls along.
The two most common sources of such a problem are a possible bind in the sewing machine mechanism itself and problems with the motor.
To check for binding, turn the handwheel by hand and feel for any undue resistance. If the machine is stiff, your problem may be the mechanism. If the machine moves freely, there is likely a problem with the motor.
The AC motor in a sewing machine or the mount behind the machine head often gets accumulated indoors. This debris may consist of partially burned carbon deposits, dust and dirt, and old lubricants. Gradually, this debris affects the operation of the engine.
You don’t need to be an engine expert, however, to understand how debris deposits can make it more difficult for your engine to perform as expected. Over time, the engine loses its ability to run properly and may fail to spin at all.
One solution to this problem is to remove the sediment by actually burning it. By running the engine at full throttle for several minutes, it is often possible to do this.
Follow this procedure: There is a break in the center of the hand wheel that causes the machine to rotate when the hand wheel turns. Release it until the hand wheel moves freely without turning the machine over. Hold down the power pedal with your hand or use a clamp or weight to depress it. The engine should start to spin slowly. If the hand wheel is not rotated carefully while delivering electricity to the motor to help the motor turn. Once the engine is running, keep it running at full speed for about five minutes. Leave it to cool down and test it again.
Bring the device while you are working. Watch out for extreme heat, sparks, or smoke from the engine.
Engine burning is often very effective at burning off old carbon deposits, debris, and grime. Essentially, you heat the engine to melt and burn the debris. In the process, you may find that the engine overheats, excessive smoke begins to flow from the engine, or sparks may fly from it. Be very careful not to cause problems. Shut down any time you feel like the burn is getting out of hand.
In some cases, burning the engine does not work. The damage to the engine is very serious. In such cases, you can remove and replace the motor brushes. You can disassemble the motor housing and clean the gunk from the contact points and armature. If you do, beware. The use of solvents in electrical appliances can be extremely dangerous. Before applying electricity to any motor, make sure it is 100% dry and free of anything that might ignite, ignite, or cause damage.
Usually, you can fix sewing machine motor fatigue syndrome with a ten-minute burn or engine service.
